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building roubo workbench

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Use the same overhang on both ends of the bench and you are pretty much done. The Roubo style bench is mm long and mm wide. We can customise the dimensions as required. A chunkier, Roubo type bench design, will require the sourcing of some heftier timbers. These oak boards were all used in one bench build, and I documented building this Roubo style workbench here. If you have the use of some roughing machinery though, then ash is a fantastic way to go.

The Split Top Roubo is constructed with massive components. The complete bench weighs upwards of pounds. Splitting the top into two pieces makes the task more manage- able. The gap is sized to be wide enough to accomodate a parallel- clamp head in order to hold work or cabinetry down to the top.

This is a feature found on many modern work- benches. The thickness of your bench top needs to be about 75mm. A Moxon Vise is an essential tool when you start working with hand tools. It clamps on to your workbench so you can cut joinery into the ends of your workpieces.

Mar 13, Study A. The overhang on this bench is about one-seventh or one-eighth of the total length. I used the wood lathe at TechShop with a small skew chisel to bore-out the hole until the pin fit snugly then I made a ball and pared it off. The wood had been repaired with polyester resin. Dog holes should be close to each other and close to the front edge of the workbench. A quick release vise will make short work of readjusting for different-sized pieces, but too much of a part hanging over the throat of the vise means a weaker hold.

This is why the holes should be closer together than the allowance of the vise. To make my dog holes straight and perfectly verticlide, I first tried using an angle guide on my cordless drill I don't have Forstner bits that fit my brace drill. Due to poor manufacturing, the guide didn't work. Plan B was to make a bit extension using the lathe at TechShop and guiding it straight by use of a square.

I clamped a board to the underside to prevent tear-out when the bit breaks-through When the battery died I switched to my brace drill which I should probably have used from the start. Once inside the wood the flutes guide the bit straight down. I had preferred to use a Forstner bit since it makes slightly cleaner holes, but I had to sand each hole clean to get a perfect fit for the bench dogs so the brace was as good a choice.

Also, the auger bit evacuated the waste better and didn't get as hot. Besides the series of dog holes, I drilled four more holes for use with a holdfast or other workholding devise. These should be placed such that the holdfasts can have the most effective reach across the surface. Store-bought bench dogs are ideal if you have too much money.

Using a vertical mill at TechShop I planed-off a flat inch at one end and now it's functional. The addition of leather makes a slightly tighter and gentler hold on the workpiece. Not as cute as bench corgis, but more useful. After a light sanding and damp cloth dusting, the first coat of oil can be applied. A workbench will take a lot of scratches and gouges and a film-forming varnish does not take well to this.

But oil will weather water, wine, and wood stain. Question 6 months ago. Late to the party. Story of my life. But if still there please indulge me. I built a Roubo years ago Tutelage: Christopher Schwartz. Just got to a point of accessorizing and actually using it. Do dog holes, necessarily, need to be through holes?

Is there a specific type dimension of holdfast that works better in a deep hole if I did drill through holes. Or one that would work in a "half hole" if, say I made my DH's just 4"deep? The front face of my end vise, since attached lag screws at very underside of benchtop, is not high enough to be flush with benchtop.

My hardwood cheeks will compensate but then I lose effect of factory dog in the front face of the vise. Any problem you can see with my installing a front cheek that is an inch higher than the rear so as to use this entire face as a dog? Thanks in advance if you are still there. Otherwise see you on the Other Side. Answer 6 months ago.

They don't need to be through holes but do you really want dust and other things falling inside and blocking your dogs? There's many different types of hold fasts, hooks, and clamps for different purposes, though if you need something to hold work down, and not just hold it in place, then you need a through-hole.

That being said, most of the work you do on wood is likely pushing it down or sideways, not up, so a sideways-clamping device is probably fine. The steel holdfast I made here is an invention of an older time when making anything with working threads was an expensive undertaking.

I have the same things happening with my vise, and the dog that came on the vise serves no purpose. That's okay because my fat brass ones work better anyway. Reply 6 months ago. Thank you for taking the time. I actually re-read your text and it helped me with question 3. So, regarding the tail vise, you actually installed just one big fat cheek on the front vise face and none at all on the rear face?

And, I presumed you recessed the back vice face. Except, maybe, thin strip of leather or something? I am building this style bench this winter in my shop. Still looking for 6x6 timbers for legs and a nice slab of some sort for the top. Did you find a good set of plans for this bench or did you just wing it. All the "Roubo" bench plans I have found are not old school like the one you built and I don't like em much. If you do have plans please let me know where you found them.

Cheers dude! One question you may be able to answer Do you have a supplier's name or brand that I can use to get the criss-cross leg vise support? I was afraid that I would end up making some, and if they're not perfect, they don't work correctly. You may want to view David Barron's solution for the mortises in the top and the matching leg tenons. It's Roubo made easy. Fantastic work bench! I wish I had the skills and time to develop the skills to make one of my own. Is that Queen Titania, in earthly disguise, posing on your bench?

Very nicely done. It looks like the leg is actually thicker than the poplar beam; did you have to mortise out some of the Doug fir, as well? Reply 8 years ago on Introduction. Yes, that's my faerie queen. The legs are thicker than the poplar rails but the tenons are cut to the same width; this is not evident in the pictures since I took them before cutting the other sides of the tenons. The extra shelf this makes on the leg adds a little bit more stability to the joint, but it's not used on every example I've seen of the Roubo bench.

You seem to have left out any instructions for the beautifully mounted materials assistance device located on the top of the bench in the lower image. I would very much like to have one for my workshop as well. Can you provide information or sourcing?

I already have electric blue dye. Right, but in terms of milling the beech, I'd assume that quartersawn pieces would be favorable over flatsawn ones due to warping potential. Right now, my beech lumber is in cylindrical form lying in the woods, so I could potentially even rift saw it, but if it's not going to make a difference once it's laminated together, warping-wise, I won't waste too much time and lumber with fancy milling.

Introduction: Roubo-Style Workbench.

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