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resurface workbench

About once a month, dampen a soft rag in boiled linseed oil or polymerized tung oil and wipe the workbench top, making sure you get the oil. I had found a vintage workbench for sale in their album for $ table or if nothing else, it can be a workbench in the garage, duh!”. Thick epoxy surface complete Workbenches, Epoxy, Surface, Work Benches. rooffrazier. Rufus Frazier. 94 followers. Follow. Workbench resurfacing. DOWNLOAD ZOOM APP ON ANDROID

So, a monthly clean-up process might be in order. A lot of the care you expend on a workbench top, of any kind, is personality driven: if you like things really clean and neat, then you'll spend a bit more time. If you don't much care, you'll spend just enough time to make sure there is no major damage that might create problems with projects.

When finishing projects on the workbench, wipe the bench down before whatever solvents you use have a chance to dry--use the same solvent to wipe the finish off the bench as is used to thin it. Come back with a light wipe-down using a dry rag--this is especially important if you're using water-based finishes or stains. About once a month, dampen a soft rag in boiled linseed oil or polymerized tung oil and wipe the workbench top, making sure you get the oil everywhere it needs to be do the wipe-down after cleaning off paint, glue and similar debris.

Take a stiff bristled brush and clean off the threads on the vise screw s. To keep those threads working nicely, you can use the dry graphite lube used also for car door locks, but do your best not to get that powder anywhere close to where it can get on unfinished project wood. It's ugly and hard to remove. If you prefer, use beeswax or other paste silicone, free wax to lubricate those threads. When the time seems right, you can use a belt sander, or hand plane, to remove nicks and other damage from the benchtop.

Even if you plan to plane, I'd make the first few passes with the belt sander to pick up glue, old finishes and similar things that might be hard on the plane iron. For complete sanding, Workbenches, especially their tops, are designed and built to take a battering. For complete sanding, unless nicks are really deep, start with 80 grit, move to , and, finally, When your major clean up is done, wipe on your choice of linseed or tung oil, as above, but let it stand for a while minutes at normal shop temperatures--and wipe it off.

Let it dry for a dozen or so hours and re-coat. Do this one more time and you're ready to make sawdust again. Quick View. Universal Bench Grippers - 8 Pack. Add to Cart. Bench Holdfast - Small. View All Workbench Accessories. Oil Block Butcher 2 oz. Oil Walnut 16 oz. View All Oils.

You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In. Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. Topics Cabinetry. Choosing Hardware. Dust Collection. Friends of Woodcraft. Getting Started with Woodworking. Great Gear. Introduction: How to Refinish a Workbench Top By Stonewall Craftworks Follow.

More by the author:. Sanding - I started with 80 grit and sanded until I was down to bare, clean, smooth wood. More sanding - Continue sanding with grit until the entire surface has been completely sanded. Even more sanding - Finish sanding with grit until the surface is smooth. Clean - Once sanding is complete, wipe the surface thoroughly to remove dust.

A shop vac works great for this. Locate the logo where you want it to be on the bench top. Use masking tape to hold the image in place along one edge. Flip the paper over using the tape as a hinge. Apply a generous layer of finish to the area you will be placing your image.

Go a few inches beyond the area that the paper will cover. Fold the paper back onto the finish being careful to lay it flat to prevent wrinkles. Wrinkles will prevent the transfer of the image, so be sure to work them out. You have a little time to re-position things, but you should work quickly. Carefully remove the tape. Gently life the edge that had tape on it and apply finish under it.

Press the image fully into the finish. Now it's time to add finish to the work surface. Apply finish - Apply a generous layer of finish to the entire bench top with a synthetic brush. A large brush will make this go faster. Cure - Allow the finish to cure for two hours, or follow the instructions for the product you are using. Saturate - Thoroughly wet the paper with clean water for approximately ten minutes. The paper will look translucent, revealing the logo.

Rub, rub, more rub - Gently rub the paper, removing it from the surface. If it doesn't rub away, apply more water and allow it to saturate. Be careful - When rubbing the paper away from the areas covering toner, be careful. Being too aggressive here may remove the ink, which can ruin your logo. Clean - Gently wipe the logo with a wet cloth to make sure you have removed all the paper. Age as much or as little as you like.

Sand - Lightly sand the applied finish with grit sand paper. DO NOT sand the logo at this point as it will remove the toner. Clean - Wipe the surface clean of any sanding residue. Finish - Apply another layer of finish. Cure - Allow the finish to cure for two hours.

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The MDF will essentially stay the same size. While you can accommodate for this sort of thing in certain ways it's generally a bad idea to try to directly attach board materials to solid wood once you go past a certain width, perhaps " you're into an area where the side-to-side dimensional changes of the solid wood are significant enough that you need to pay attention to them.

What to do instead However you don't need to ditch your workbench dream using this material entirely, quite the opposite. Using what you have at hand you can make any number of different workbenches of various styles and configurations. At the most basic a single thickness of MDF can work as a top for now, with the plan being to beef it up later, and possibly add a sacrificial hardboard surface as well.

If you have enough material you can laminate it now — a full sheet is 8'x4' and ripping this in half yields 2' pieces, and 24" or slightly less is a very common workbench depth. Material of this thickness has been used to make many a woodworking bench that has served its builder well, and outlasted them, as long as the rest of the construction was sound. A more modern take is to rip the 2x10s into narrower strips into 2, 3 or 4, depending on how thick you want the final top to end up , then face-glue them together to make a top where the board edges become the top surface 4.

In this case your cupping will be far easier to deal with, and result in less loss of thickness, if you rip the boards into two note: not necessarily right down the centre. Sounds like it would work fine to me. I used it for years and made quite a few projects that I was proud of on it.

There's really only two very minor things that I ran into. When you're drilling the dog holes the center spurs on forstner bits tend to not like MDF. I was able to drill much faster when I had small pilot holes for my forstner bit.

The second issue was that I never felt totally confident with the overhang that the vise was attached to. If I did it again I'd probably back up that area with a batten on the underside to keep it from flexing down. When I built it 7 years ago and just today I planed the surface flat using the sliding router box on rails trick. It worked great for the tools I had at the time, and now is the center of my garage shop along with my table saw.

Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. What are the pros and cons of MDF as a workbench top? Ask Question. Asked 1 year, 10 months ago. Modified 5 months ago. Viewed 15k times. I do want bench dogs and an inset face vise. Any thoughts on what the pros and cons of this approach would be?

Or stumbling blocks? Improve this question. Graphus 58k 2 2 gold badges 42 42 silver badges bronze badges. Leonard Leonard 1 1 gold badge 1 1 silver badge 3 3 bronze badges. One con is it sucks up moisture like a sponge. Wax it well and often?? I would incorporate into your design the ability to replace the MDF top with minimal effort. One of the nicest things about using MDF is that it's so damn heavy. Your bench will be super heavy and super solid. Was the video from Rob Cossman? I know he has a series might be paid?

It uses a 1" top. If Rob recommeneds it - I don't think you can go wrong. It might be flexible enough to flatten during a glue up. Yes, Rob Cosman's video. And I did pay for it. It worked out well. There is no finish that will hold up to shop use and still look good, and bare wood will prevent your stock from slipping.

For the same reason I'd avoid wax, you don't want to put a lubricant on your work surface. It's a lesser-known secret that the mini ice age in the 17th and 18th centuries produced some of the finest MDF ever known and these have yet to be matched today.

Benches don't really need a finish. I did an oil-varnish blend on a previous bench and, while it didn't make things slippery, it was time that could certainly have been better spent. If you have some leftover finish that needs using up or if you want to use part of your bench to experiment with a finishing technique, go for it. Otherwise, just build the bench and then get on to making furniture. I put a coat of butchers wax on the top of mine every once in a while.

Glue doesn't stick to it and pops right off with a scraper or chisel. Hemlock and the Watco works great. It looks good till you gouge, drilll and saw it by accident. But thats what a bench is for Traction helps hand tools, planing stops, bench hooks, hold downs, etc A bench is NOT a dining table.

It's going to get scratched, cut, and hammered on. You may need to plane or sand it flat in the future. His workbench was made with Douglas Fir. Here is his completed workbench sans vise with the finish on it. Click picture to enlarge.

Step one; build your bench out of whatever material you can get a hold of in sufficient quantities without breaking your budget. Now for the labor intensive part. Spend the rest of your life distressing the benchtop by randomly cutting into it with planes, chisels, saws and anything else you find laying around that's harder than wood. Sprinkle with random holes of varying sizes from errant drill and router bits. Dabble glue drips liberally and randomly across the entire surface.

Finally add several coats, drips, runs whatever you want to call them of every finish you ever use. As an option you can also randomly scribble measurements, quick project sketches and notes to yourself that you won't understand later. In the end what ever you put on your bench to finish it is not near as important as what ever you finish on your bench to take off. I recommend an oil finish of any type followed by regular waxings.

Every varnished bench I've used has been awful. I use a shop made wax which is a little stickier than typical furniture wax. My recipe is simple. Shave a pile of bees wax into a can and add enough turpentine to cover. Stir it up once in a while and in a few days it will have dissolved into a paste.

Adjust consistency by adding more turps or by evaporation. Good for waxing screws too. Crap for waxing furniture other than workbenches. Consider yourself warned. Rob I wonder if those MDF's from the 17th and 18th century will succumb to a blight similar to the one attacking the black walnut species. If you have a separate assembly table where stain and glue gets dropped, no finish on your bench is fine. If you're going to use your bench for working - sawing, planing, holding, etc AND for assembly, you need some type of finish on it.

Leaving it as bare wood is bad advice because inevitably, you will drop glue and other things on it that will bond and be hard to remove. Barry and others gave you some good direction where you can protect it from glue but still have it kind of 'grippy'. Heck, when I build another one, I want it all I want to put some different woods in it and make it functional AND pretty To me, it's a part of the bench evolving with you.

I'm with tdale51, use it, write on it, drill an extra dog hole to fit a particular need but always remember, it ain't a church bench to kneel at and pray Probably a good idea. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

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